Boots
Believe it or not, this may be the most important piece of equipment you own. The one thing you have to be careful about on your trip is your feet, if they die, you aren't going anywhere. For this reason, be careful when buying your boots. The type of footwear that you purchase should depend on the types of hiking that you will be doing. Protection from the elements and the terrain and distance that you will be covering are all factors in deciding what boots to purchase. Make a quick decision based on fashion, a closeout sale, or uncle john’s hand-me-down old boots and you might find yourself in the wilderness with half-dollar size blisters that are unbearably painful.
You can choose from the following types of boots.
Lightweight boots
Not only referring to the actual weight in pounds, grams, etc. but to the intended use of the boots. These boots are light, flexible, and require little to no break in time. They are relatively inexpensive and are an excellent way to see if you will enjoy hiking. Because they are only intended to be used for day hikes, carrying only the essentials (water, snacks, additional light layers, first-aid kit) that will easily fit into a fanny pack or a small day pack, they should not be used for backpacking trips requiring a loaded pack. These trips require a boot with more ankle support.
Most lightweight boots are made with a combination of fabric (cordura) and leather. This allows for the increased flexibility that heavier boots do not possess. The combination also provides plenty of breathability, for extra comfort. The midsole is usually made of EVA (ethyl vinyl acetate) which offers enough support for light use, but is not recommended for backpacking. The intended use for this boot are light day hikes on existing trails only carrying those essential items mentioned earlier.
A pair of light weigh hiking boots will weigh from 1-1/2 to 2LBS.
Midweight Boots
Usually used when a hiker carries additional weight and the trail traveled is more rugged. The midweight boot is the most popular boot, in part because of it's versatility. It can be used in light hiking situations, is great for it's intended use (short trips with 10-25 pound pack), and can even be a temporary boot for the person wishing to attempt a longer hike requiring additional weight. These boots are usually made of a full grain leather or split grain leather. The best of these would be full grain. Split grain(suede) is more supple, which requires less break-in time but also offers less support and usually does not last as long as full-grain. The best boots will have a one piece construction. One piece construction will allow the boot to form to the foot better, better breathability and waterproofness(from lack of stitching), and durability(again from a lack of stitching). The midsole is usually made of a polyethylene sheet that is stiffer than the EVA. There are other varieties of midsole but they serve the same purpose as the polyethylene. Finally, the sole is a lugged, usually Vibram, rubber to enhance the boots ability to give support and traction while walking on rough, unlevel ground while carrying weight.
A pair of midweight hiking boots will weigh about 3 to 3-1/2LBS.
Heavy weight boots
Used primarily when hiking with a lot of weight (45+ pounds), hiking long periods of time, and over extremely rough terrain. The uppers are about as thick as leather can be and the midsoles are very thick, as are the soles. This creates a boot that can withstand excessive use during extreme conditions (carrying a lot of weight, in wet conditions, in cold conditions, and rough terrain over long periods of time and miles of trail). Because of their stiffness one must allow for plenty of break-in time before the first excursion. If these boots have not been broken in before the first trip, many blisters can form, making the trip not as fun as anticipated. Most of these boots can harness crampons, which are important when crossing packed snow, ice, and/or glaciers. If you, the hiker, plan to do long sections or through hike the Pacific Crest Trail or Continental Divide Trail these boots would be a necessity.
A pair of heavy weight hiking boots can weigh-in at 4-5LBS, quite a bit of extra weight cinsidering the thousands of times you'll be lifitng each boot on your hike!
Boot Construction
There are three main components of a hiking boot: the upper, the midsole, and the outsole. The upper, usually made of leather or a combination of fabric and leather. Leather is the most durable, form fitting, and waterproof material available. In leather there is full-grain and split-grain(suede). Full-grain is the outside layer from the cow's hide. This grain is most durable against abrasion and water penetration. Any layer that is not from the outside layer of the hide is considered to be a split-grain. Split-grain layers are softer, breathe better, and stretch easily. Because it is supple, split-grain does not offer the same support as that of full-grain and is more difficult to waterproof.
Soles are made up of three components: the outsole, the midsole, and the insole. Soles(mid and outer) are attached to the boot uppers by glue, stitching, or a combination of the two.
Outsole - This is the portion of boot that meets the ground again, and again. Sometimes known as the tread, this is what gives you traction across dirt and rocks. Usually made of synthetic rubber, it is identified by the tread pattern offering varying degrees of traction. There are also important factors in attaching these soles to the uppers.
Low impact sole - Low impact relates to the boot sole, much like street relates to the tires on your car. Street tires are treaded to provide comfort and a smooth ride down the road. Low impact soles are the same idea. They provide a softer more shallow tread that will not wear down the surface you are walking on, and will provide you a softer, more gentle step.
Shank - The shank is what gives the mid-sole its stiffness. Composed of steel or plastic, the strip is essential to the foundation of the boot.
Midsole - The midsole is most important in foot support. The midsole gives the boot stability. It a layer of foam, or polyurethane found between the insole and outsole of the boot cemented to the shank. The duty of the midsole is to give your foot arch support and assist in absorbing the shock of each step. The midsole also offers some of the protection from the foot being bruised by rocks and roots embedded in the trail. This also gives the boot it's torsional rigidity.
Rand - The rubber rand, is much like a rubber band. It is the band on the outside of the boot that runs between the upper and the sole to protect the seam from water.
Insole - The insole is a thin foam insert that may be replaced from time to time or initially with a better after market product. It is responsible for dissipating the shock of each step, and wicks away sweat from your foot. You can also use insoles with more insulation for cold weather hiking and less insulation for warmer weather.
Heel Counter - This cups your heel to help avoid the dreaded twisted ankle, and keeps your heel from slipping up and down.
Heel Collar - The heel collar is designed to absorb pressure placed on the Achilles Tendon and ankle. This is accomplished by placing extra padded material above the heel counter. Sometimes this material may also be called the scree collar because it provides protection from unwanted debris that tries to find its way into your boots.
Upper - It is designed to protect your toes, top of the foot and heel from unseen objects and rocks found on the trail. The upper can be synthetic or leather and surrounds the foot securely with padding by being laced up. The upper is the portion of the boot that provides the support for your ankles while negotiating tough terrain.
Fully-gusseted tongue - In order to keep the interior of your boots free from debris, the tongue is sewn to the upper along both sides.
Norwegian Welt - This method of attaching the sole to the upper is done by stitching. Hence, many outdoor enthusiasts prefer these boots because they can wear a single pair for years by simply replacing the sole when needed.
Cemented - This method of boot construction is the lightweight alternative to Norwegian Welt. The sole is simply glued to the upper vs. the stitched method of Norwegian Welt.
Waterproofing - When shopping for backpacking boots, be sure to differentiate between the following:
Waterproof leather -
This is leather that's been treated to be waterproof. It's great stuff to have, but remember leaks may still occur (depending on how well the boot pieces are put together).
Waterproof (or water-tight) construction -
This refers to construction techniques designed to keep leaks out (like seam-sealing, special stitches and precise designs). Water-tight construction is typically combined with waterproofed materials.
Waterproof liners -
These are the special waterproof barriers described above that are built right into the boot to protect you from whatever leaks make it through the boot materials. These liners typically do a great job of keeping you dry. But remember, Gore-Tex (and the others) don't last forever.
Tip: The waterproofness (or water-resistance) of your hiking boots depends significantly on how well you treat them. Be sure to follow all care instructions that come with your boots so that they can perform well and last a long time.
Fit
When buying boots some people get into the brand thing or how much should I pay idea. Just remember that with boots you get the durability that you pay for and brand name usually has little to do with it. The most important thing that you should be concerned about is finding a shoe that fits comfortably and has the features that you want. Make sure you don’t buy shoes or boots that are too short, so that your toes run into the front of the boots, or too big, so that you get blisters. Look for a pair that fits snugly but still allows some wiggle room for your toes.
These tips should help:
To assure a good fit, be sure to go shopping late in the day or after you've walked a considerable distance; that's when your feet are most likely to be swollen, the way they'll be after a few miles on the trail.
Wear the socks you are going to wear with your boots. A lightweight wicking liner sock made of wool, polypropylene, coolmax or silk, followed by a mid to heavy wool or wool blend sock seems to work best.
Always keep in mind that new boots tend to get wider and shorter with age. This is because the upper tends to stretch in width with use, but the toes tend to curl up as the boot gets older. It is important that you don't get boots too short or wide to start with.
Now put your foot into the boot. With the boots unlaced, push your toes forward until they are right up against the front of the boot, slide your index finger behind your heel. It should easily fit, if it is difficult or you can't do this the boots are too short-send them back. If there is much more room than this they are most likely too large.
Next tap your heel back into the heel cup. You should always do this before lacing your boots. Lace the boots snugly going from bottom to top, your heel should not be able to lift much more than 1/4 inch. Excessive heel lift the boot is too long or too wide. The boots should feel snug in the ball and the ankle, as these areas are where the boot will break-in.
Lastly check the toes by kicking on them or by walking down a 45 degree incline. Your toes should not jam against the front of the boot. You should feel slight pressure on impact but not a sharp stab. Try lacing your boots tighter over the instep. If this does not work the boots are too short or too wide.
One rule of thumb often given is "if the boots don't feel comfortable out of the box they are not going to fit - send them back". Boots do break-in and become more comfortable but no amount of break-in will make an uncomfortable boot comfortable. Note, improperly fitted boots will cause pain, blisters and also excessive wear to your boots.
Breaking In Your Boots
Like many things, taking your time on something gives you a better outcome. If you try to break-in your boots too fast you may not get the results you were looking for and your feet may pay the price. Heavy boots require a longer break-in period (weeks) than the lightweight models. The idea is to get the boots to soften up and form to your feet. Keep the following in mind - the break-in process will not turn poor fitting boots into good ones (make sure that you pay attention to the fitting process.) Don't be temped by the quick fix approach to breaking in your boots (like standing in the shower with your boots on and than wearing them until they dry out). Some retailers offer the following advice:
The Basic Break-in Procedure
Begin by wearing your boots for short periods of time inside the house. Wear the kinds of socks you're likely to be wearing out on the trail. Lace your boots up tight, and make sure your tongues are lined up and the gusset material is folded flat. The creases you form as you break-in your boots will likely remain for the life of the boot.
Your new boots will be a little stiff at first, which is fine. But if you notice significant pinching, rubbing or pain right off the bat, you may want to take the boots back and try a different style.
If after several short indoor sessions your boots seem to fit comfortably, expand your horizons. Wear your new boots to the local store, around town or while working in the yard. Gradually increase the amount of time you spend in your boots and the distances you cover. Make sure your boots feel good at each stage before increasing your distance.
Note: Make sure your new boots fit comfortably before you wear them outside!
Be vigilant throughout the break-in process for any pain or discomfort. As soon as you notice either, take the boots off. Remember -- small problems can become big ones very quickly. If everything feels good, try adding a little weight on your back as you hike, and/or hiking on more challenging trails.
If your boots feel good throughout the break-in process, but a single pinch or a hot spot remains, you may be able to correct the problem area by visiting a shoe-repair shop or your retail store. Most have stretching devices that can help alleviate localized boot-fitting problems.
Caring For Your Boots
It is important to periodically treat leather boots to prevent drying and cracking of the leather. Treat them when they are new and treat them often throughout the year. Different types of leather require different types of treatments. If you have any questions about the type of leather your boot is or what waterproofing to use call the manufacturer. Using the wrong treatment can damage or soften the leather and voids the warranty.
The most important part of caring for your boot is to keep them clean and dry. After a trip take the boots and wash them, use luke warm water (never hot) and scrub them with saddle soap. Then rinse the boots off. Boots with leather linings should also be washed several times a year to remove salt accumulations from the linings. Boots with fabric can also be cleaned by using a mild soap or shampoo and scrubbing with a nylon brush.
After cleaning allow boots to dry at room temperature. NEVER expose boots to heat, this has damaged or ruined many boots by causing sole delamination, damaging seams and melting cement. This applies on the trail too, never dry boots by a campfire. Also, try not to let your boots freeze when they are wet as this can also damage the boots. Never store your boots wet.
For additional information on boots check-out the following web sites (cut & paste the web URL's to your browser):
Blue Cross & Blue Shield 'Healthy Me' Site
{http://www.ahealthyme.com/topic/hikingboots}
Backpacker Magazine 'Footwear Center'
{http://www.backpacker.com/gear/footwear/step1/}
Gearing Up - 'Choosing the proper boots' - SPECIAL TO THE POST-INTELLIGENCER
{http://seattlepi.nwsource.com/getaways/042398/gear23.html}
REI 'Expert Advice' Site
{http://www.rei.com/online/store/LearnShareArticlesList?storeId=8000&langId=-1&categoryId=Learn&stat=side_28}
This page revised January 14, 2007